Egri Csillag, 2020

Since 2010, the Eger Vintners’ Association has been attempting to breathe new life into the whites of the region by creating a white counterpart of the red Bikavér. This white blend, like Bikavér, is named after historic events in the region. Egri Csillag, which can be translated as ‘Star of Eger’, is named for the lights emanating from the watchmen’s huts which stood on the northeastern borders of the city during the Ottoman occupation of Hungary in the 16th and 17th centuries.  It’s a complicated and potentially very variable blend based on Carpathian Basin varieties, such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Leanyka, Királyleányka, Zengő, Zenit and some other Hungarian crossings. At least four of these varieties have to be included and make up at least 50 percent of the blend and each must represent a minimum of 5 percent. Then the blend may also include up to 30 percent of fragrant Muscat-like varieties, such as Cserszegi Füszeres, Zefír, Irsai Oliver, Tramini and Muscat Ottonel. Sounds confusing? Well there’s more to come. Winemakers can also include non-Carpathian varieties for the balance, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling and Müller Thurgau. There is no clear recipe and although the wines should aim to conform to a relatively uniform style, they also express the unique personality of the winery through their style and combination of varieties.